Miss Havisham practise look 2

Today i practised the Miss Havisham look in class, and the following are the image taken and the instruction on what i used to achieve the look.  

i used black and gry on the ayes to create the dirty and skeleton look. but i think that i should have used a little pink or purple to add that sickly effect that i am trying to archive. 

to contour the chicks i used purple and black. and for the bruise i used red, purple and yellow and a hint of black to make the bruise look old. 

for the hair i curled the dun and pinned it in a messy way, making sure that i live sone curls hugging. i also plated the side of the hair a pined it around the bun.  

Miss havisharm hair ideas and research

Miss Havisherm has been depicted in many different ways in film and Televition. in Great Expectation 2012 by mike newell we see Miss Havisherm played buy Helen Bonham, in this film the hair stylist has made her hair wild and untamed. her hair is full of frizzy curls and has alot of visible texture.  
One other Miss Havisharm hair thay i look at was the t.v scerise grate expectation 2011 played by Gillian Anderson and directed by Brian Kirk. her hair was more tamed but just at the front, the buck was left in a up do and was not well looked ofter.
looking at the two pictures of miss Havisherm character, i wonted to do something different and simple 
one of the things i looked at is aging hair. in the past miss Havisern as been seen as an old better lady and in reality she was most likely to have been in her 40s. However the lack of sun light can age hair a lot therefor my miss Havisherm will have highlights of gry in her hair, resorting to her looking even more old.

in the 1900th women used to have there hair up a lot. therefor for my miss Havisherm character her hair has to be in a up do mostly at the back.

here is a few Victorian hair inspiration that i have been looking at

 

In the fist picture, there is a viriaty of hair style to chose from, however my favourite is the third pictuer with the plats on both sides then wrapped loosely around the bun at the back of head. this look is simple for the continuity. my next favourite is the fanny Hansel photo. this hairstyle is very early Victoria and is also simple for my continuity project.

 Other images i looked at were of women in there 40s to 50s, that had gry hair.

 

practicing miss havisharm look 1

To day i meet up with the my model, and we practised the miss havisharm loo. For this look i used the kryolan profession makeup palette. i used the purple and yellow colour to make my model look sick and thin. in the lips i used a brown eyebrow pencil to make her lips look old and a white setting powder to make the lips look dry.

looking at this image i can see that there is still a little more to do. So for the next practice session i will play around with more colours in the palette to achieve the look i wont.

Home practice

for this look i was playing around to see what miss havisham would look like old. in many of the film she has been depicted as old.

firther research into miss havisherm (age and skin disorders)

In Great Expectations we learn that Miss Havisham has locked herself in her tower for many years . This means she has not been exposed to  sunlight  at all for the length of time she had been there. 

My aim is to research the effects lack of sun exposure to a person. 

1. Shortage of vitamin D 
   Vitamin D is produced by the body in response to skin being opposed to the sunlight. vitamin D is essential for strong bones because it helps use calcium from the diets. 

2. Osteomalacia: Softening of bone, particularly in the sense of bone weakened by demineralisation (the loss of mineral) and most notably by the depletion of calcium from bone.

3. Rickets is caused by a deficiency of vitamin D, calcium, or phosphate

Looking at this information, it is easy to see why Miss Havisham in the films looks old and walks with a stick.  

miss havisharms hair

For miss havashram hair i will keep it simple. from research i found out that women in the 1800s used to have there hair in center parting,then they would curl the side or create two plats one on either side, then it would be used to create a hoop effect and wrapped around the bun. the bun would either plated or curled and then pinned in place.

looking also at Miss Havisharm hair in both films and T.V., i can see how that they are heavily influenced by the mid 1800. in of my favourite Miss Havisharm look seen on the screens is the BBC series played by Gillian Anderson. Her hair is very interesting. looking at it is as if she has fixed just the front of the hair and neglected the back. the back is a frizzy mess and uncapped. however through the bbc sceries we see her curls at the front drop and get messy. 

For my final project i will plat the sides of my models hair and then create a loop effect and pin it in place around the bun. for the bun i will curl the hair but allow the curls to drop so that they look old. 

then i will pin them in a messy way. 

My Miss Havisharm character will be wearing a vail that will be covering her bun. this will help to keep the look the same in the continuity assessment. Also it refracts well on Miss Havisharm character in the book who we know never took her wedding cloths off. 

Victorian Photography

http://indigoplum.co.uk/news/2013/2/photography_in_the_victorian_era
http://www.viralnova.com/post-mortem-victorian-photographs/


Queen Victoria was the fist monarch to be captured on a comera. this is because photography became available in the 1830s. the picture took several hours to capture therefor the person having there picture taken was wold have to try and hold a small for long. this later change because it was next to impossible to hold a smile for that long therefore fixed expression became the fashion.
when it came to photographing children it proved to be quite a task because children can not be still for long. looking at some of the picture of small children, the mother had to hide behind a cloth and hold the child. you can somethings see the mother trying to hide behind the child.

one of the common thing done in the Victorian times is having a picture of the dead taken. this was one of the main way for a loved one to preserve the memory of their dead. it was very common fo a mother who had just lost a child/baby to hold them in picture as if they were alive to make the dead look as lifelike as possible.
photographer would try different things to make the dead look as alive as possible. one of those ways was by posing the dead with their favourite thing E.G. toys for children  or even pets. sometimes they would try and make the dead look as if they r sleeping.

a dead person posing with his dogs

a dead girl posing with her toys.  

Dead masks

Before photography came along, death masks play a big pat on the societies and it preserved the image of the noble and the famous. They were extremely, even eerily, accurate impressions of their subject, made from plaster or wax in the first hours after death. ( http://science.howstuffworks.com/science-vs-myth/afterlife/death-mask1.htm)
in the 19th century death was a very common thing, so the practice of death mask was seen as normal. it was looked at as a way to preside the loved one that had passed away.

today although the practice of death mask is not popular, we can still find them in the museums. we can find death mask of people search as:

Taken at the time of his autopsy and currently on display at the National Museum of Health and Medicine, Washington DC. In 2007, Dr. John Sotos studied his face and medical records and concluded that he suffered from a disease called Multiple Mucosal  Neuroma Syndrome and had he not been assassinated, he would have died soon anyway.

Napoleon Bonaparte, Emperor of the French. Original cast created on 7th May, 1821, one and a half day after his death on the island of St. Helena. Only four copies of the original cast have been verified has genuine. This bronzed copy is currently on display at the Louisiana State Museum in New Orleans.

http://www.elistmania.com/still/20_death_masks_of_famous_people/
http://science.howstuffworks.com/science-vs-myth/afterlife/death-mask2.htm

In leson today with Sharon we got the opportunity to create the death mask, but not in the way  i expected. In older to do this we had to find a shadow and take a picture of our self with the shadow. after this we used makeup to recreate the image taken in the shadow.
this task was very fun and interesting to do.

death mask by beth kabuga 2015

For this look i used the white eyeshadow allover the face and i used black to crate the shadows on the face.

How the Victorians morned their dead.

Looking at how the Victorians mourned their dead is very interesting. One of the most common ways for someone to mourn their loved one was by wearing black clothing. In fact, Queen Victorian herself mourned for her husband Prince Albert who passed away in 1861, for 40 years and throughout those 40 year she wore black. During her mourning she did not change anything in her house.  Everyday her servant would change her husband's bedsheets, set out his clothes and bring hot water and his shaving cap out. Also the glass which he used to take his medication in  stayed in the same place beside his bed for 40 years.

This was Queen Victoria’s way of mourning; some would say this is a very long time for one to mourn someone however I think its is understandable considering how young Albert was when he died. One should be allowed to mourn for as long as they fell the need.

Mourning period 

There were four periods of mourning, each one with its own rules and customs. The widow used to carry out the first one, which usually lasted two and a half years.

·      The first period of mourning or deep mourning lasted one year and one day. The costumes were of two pieces, a bodice and a skirt. -Working-class women could make a cotton dress or dye one in black. Middle class-women could choose from black wool, cotton or silk. Upper-class women could use the latest trend but always in silk or wool. The main feature of this period was the long black veil that reached to the waist or to the knees. Women were not allowed to wear jewellery and could only leave home to go to church or to visit relatives. If the wife had no small children to raise, they were allowed to marry after this period.

• The second period of mourning lasted six months or until the time of the widow’s death, as in the case of Queen Victoria. In this period the veil became shorter and they could use it over their heads. In addition, they could use jewellery made of the deceased hair, either a brooch or a bracelet.

• The third mourning period lasted between three to six months. In this period the only thing that changed was the veil,  which was shorter than in the second period.

•The fourth mourning period or half mourning lasted between six months or until the widow’s  the death. Dresses could be designed to the latest fashion; they only had to be made with half mourning colours like grey, violet, lilac, mauve or white.

 Regarding men, the widower only had one mourning period.  This period lasted between six months and one year. They could continue with their life and work. Their suit had to be made from a black cloth.  Finally, when people finished with the mourning period and wanted to return to normal life, they had to send cards to their friends so that they could make visits and be visited.

One other way to mourn someone in the Victorian times and in some cultures today is by having a piece of jewellery that is made from the dead loved one’s hair; in some cases the jewellery would have a picture and hair together. This is a more personal way of mourning and it meant one could always have a piece of the loved one with them at all times. 

ebeccalikes.blogspot.co.uk/2011/03/vintage-hair-jewelry.html

http://victorianeracnr.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/rules-and-customs-of-mourning-in.html)

Gothic location

This week i visited a few places in southampton looking for thing and buildings that reflects the Gothic.

Estella and pip character

Estella

The book "Great Expectations" by Charles Dickens (1861) describes Estella as beautiful and rich however those are the only good qualities she has. We also see that she is shallow and cruel as we read on. Estella is Miss Havisham's adopted daughter, she is moulded by Miss Havisham to break men's hearts and to avenge her.

It's very easy to dislike Estella as a reader, however I look at her as a victim of Miss Havisham's rage and vengeance. All she has known throughout her life is bitterness, she has been moulded by Miss Havisham to be the person she is ( cruel and shallow).

The story behind Miss Havisham's effect on Estella is very sad. Having been surrounded by Miss Havisham, the only example Estella sees is of bitterness and hatred towards men. Estella is an emotionally abused child. She takes her orders from Miss Havisham; this is seen when she tells Pip, "We have no choice, you and I, but to obey our instructions" (p. 366). She becomes an accomplished flirt, heartlessly leading men on. One can say that Estella has been robbed of the ability to love.

Pip

Just like Estella, Pip is manipulated by Miss Havisham. It is very clear to us, the reader that Pip is there just as way of training Estella to break men's hearts. This is made clear to us when Miss Havisham tells Estella that she can break Pip's heart easily. 

In the book miss Havisham begs Pip to love Estella;

"Love her, love her, love her! If she favours you, love her. If she wounds you, love her. If she tears your heart to pieces–and as it gets older and stronger–it will tear deeper–love her, love her, love her!"...

        "Hear me, Pip! I adopted her to be loved. I bred her and educated her to be loved. I developed her into what she is, that she might be loved. Love her!"...
       "I'll tell you," said she, in the same hurried passionate whisper, "what real love it. It is blind devotion, unquestioning self-humiliation, utter submission, trust and belief against yourself and against the whole world, giving up your whole heart and soul to the smiter–as I did!" (p. 240)

Though Pip is aware that the love referred to is more a curse than a blessing, he still allows himself to love Estella. His attraction affects the decisions he later makes to becoming a gentleman . it is very clear to the reader that his longing to be a gentleman has everything to do with his attraction to Estella and that he wants to be worthy of her however thing do not go has planed and the one thing that he longed for so long (Estella) get taken away by someone else .  

ref
great expectations by Charles Dickens
My Favourite Charles Dickens character: Estella from Great Expectations (1861) By Serena Davies, TV & Radio Editor
http://academic.brooklyn.cuny.edu/english/melani/novel_19c/dickens/love.html

practising the 19th century hairstyles.

Today in lesson Helen showed use how to create a late victorian hair style. in the victorian times a lot of women would have there hair in curse and some of the hair in a ponytail.

iwanttobeapinup.wordpress.com/2012/07/11/my-north-south-anniversary-fashionable-fanny/

there curls was usualy on the side of the head and some hunging loss at the back, but others had tight curls at the front of the head and the rest in a ponytail which also had curls.

for this look all i used was a tail comb to section the front of the hair in the centre and also to section some of the hair from the back.
i used small curing tongs to curl the side of the hair and also the back of the hair.

image

developing miss Havisharm character

In the book "Great Expectations" by Charles Dickens (1861) Miss Havisham is described by Pip as 'the witch of the place'. Her long long life away from the sunlight has aged her and she is said to look like a cross between a waxwork and a skeleton with moving eyes, just like the house she lives in is said to be decaying.

When Pip first sees Miss Havisham, he describes her as dressed in "rich materials - satins, and lace, and silks - all white. Her shoes were white and she had a long white veil suspended from her hair as well as bridal flowers in her hair, but her hair was white. Some bright jewels sparkled on her neck and on her hands, and some other jewels lay sparkling on the table. Dresses, less splendid than the dress she wore, and half-packed trunks, were scattered about ... I saw that everything within my view which ought to be white, had been white long ago, and had lost its lustre, and was faded and yellow. I saw that the bride within the bridal dress had withered like the dress, and like the flowers, and had no brightness left but the brightness of her sunken eyes ... Once, I had been taken to see some ghastly waxwork at the Fair, representing I know not what impossible personage lying in state. Once, I had been taken to one of our old marsh churches to see a skeleton in the ashes of a rich dress that had been dug out of vault under the church pavement. Now, waxwork and skeleton seemed to have dark eyes that moved and looked at me. I should have cried out, if could". (ch. 8 )
 http://www.bl.uk/romantics-and-victorians/articles/the-gothic-in-great-expectations#sthash.2ufHq7YY.dpuf

I have chosen to target the TV audience. therefore Miss Havisham's look will be TV friendly.

Here are 2 face charts of Miss Havisham

In this one I have kept the look plain yet pale with dark eyes; she also looks very thin. This would probably be what she would look like after a year of being indoors. 

In this look Miss Havisham's eyes are dark and red. This is what I would imagine she would look like after 5 to 10 years of living in the house and not seeing the sun. I also imagine that she had wounds from scratching.

Late Victorian hair 1860 to 1890

During the late Victorian times, there was an increase in the use of hair decoration. The hair was no longer always centred and smooth as in the early Elizabethan era. Hair was curled at the front and the side were sleeked back into a knot. The back of the hair was also curled and and pinned up into a style. At this period more elaborate hair styles were seen. This was due to an increase in use of curling tongs and hair pieces.

 Flowers were another way of decorating hair.

victorian hairstyle 1830's to 1860's ( The early Victorian) and the 1860 to 1890

Hair between 1830 and 1860 was very sleek. For women the hair was usually parted in the center and pulled back smoothly towards the back. Some women would curl the side of the hair and the rest of the hair held into a knot at a the back of the head. Also women with very long hair world plat the sides of there hair in to two plat, then bring it back loosely to create a lop effect and join it to the knot created at the back.

Mens hair at this period was more or less long. they also had moustaches,side barns and a beard but this varied over time.  

1860 - 1890.

By the 1860 women were using a lot more hair extension on there hair. Long hair was desirable and therefor extensions were use to give the hair the length. one thing that was very commune during the late Victorian is the fact the hair was usually in large plats and loser curls compared to the start of the victorian era.

pintrest-1860 hairstyle 

victoruan evening hairstyle
taken from a costume plate illustration  

La Mode illustrée: journal de la famille
- Google Books January 1864

lamodeillustree.livejournal.com